When it starts getting cold outside a horse’s body starts to make changes to adapt with the temperature. Probably the most noticeable change from our eyes is their hair coat. If a horse’s coat is allowed to grow, it can give them just as much protection from the cold as a blanket. Unless you are showing regularly through the winter months you should never clip any part of your horse during this time. When a horse feels colder weather coming on its hair reacts and tends to stand up to retain heat. If you are showing during the winter and your horse is body clipped a blanket may be necessary. Be sure that your horse is dry before you put a blanket on. Trapping moisture under a blanket for an extended period of time may cause skin problems on a horse. Use good common sense when blanketing. If it’s cold and snowy and windy, put a blanket on. If it’s cold but sunny take the blanket off.
One thing you can do during the winter to keep your horse a little warmer is give it a little extra hay. On those bitter cold nights a little extra hay can go a long way. During digestion a horse’s body produces heat. Digesting hay produces a lot more heat than digesting grain. This is why you should never give your horse extra grain during the winter to try to keep it warm. This increase consumption of hay you would think would make your horse want to drink more. However, in the winter months a horse actually decreases water consumption. This makes it especially important that you make sure it always has access to clean, fresh water. Frozen water buckets are not pleasant to anyone but there are a couple things you could do to make it easier. Rubber buckets are a blessing in the winter since you can hit them a little harder to break the ice versus plastic buckets. If your barn is wired for electric good enough, heated water buckets are also available. These can also be dangerous if the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed. It’s also a great idea to put heat tape around exposed hydrants in your barn. They can prevent water pipes from freezing and keep your plumbing bills down!
If your horse is outside during the winter and in the snow you will want to make sure ice is not being packed and making it hard for them to walk. Horses can slip much easier if ice is packed in their hooves. Be sure to keep up on getting your horses hooves trimmed during the winter. If hooves are not maintained during the winter you risk problems in the spring and it may prolong the time you wait until you can ride again.
Every horse owner knows that horse care during the winter is a lot more difficult than in the summer months. Frozen water, frigid temperatures, high winds and snow can make it miserable but your horse’s health will be better if it has the proper care and your wallet will be bigger not paying those expensive vet bills if something bad would happen.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Monday, November 30, 2009
Oh, Christmas Tree!
Oh Christmas tree, oh Christmas tree.
One of our favorite holiday traditions is going out as a family and picking just the right Christmas tree at a local Christmas tree farm and cutting it ourselves. However, over the past few years, we have discovered some tips to help our Christmas tree last through the holiday season. One thing that really helps is to spray the tree with an anti-wilt product. This minimizes needle loss and helps the tree maintain valuable moisture that it will lose being in a climate controlled home. We also put our tree up in a cooler part of the house, in front of a window and away from heating ducts. This also helps the tree retain moisture. One year we chose to get the tree with the bulb so that we could plant it in the yard after the holidays. When we did this we got a large galvanized tub to house the bulb of the tree. Depending on the bulb size and shape, it is not always easy to get the tree positioned just right. You can stabilize the tree in the center of the tub using rocks or bricks. Keep the bulb watered as often as necessary to moisten the roots but be sure to not make it soggy. It is also important to NOT apply any nutrients or fertilizer to the bulb while you have it in the house. This may initiate growth, which you do not want to occur in the dormant tree. However, once the tree is planted outside, you can use evergreen green fertilizer spikes to ensure that your holiday tree has the nutrients it need for many more Christmases to come!
One of our favorite holiday traditions is going out as a family and picking just the right Christmas tree at a local Christmas tree farm and cutting it ourselves. However, over the past few years, we have discovered some tips to help our Christmas tree last through the holiday season. One thing that really helps is to spray the tree with an anti-wilt product. This minimizes needle loss and helps the tree maintain valuable moisture that it will lose being in a climate controlled home. We also put our tree up in a cooler part of the house, in front of a window and away from heating ducts. This also helps the tree retain moisture. One year we chose to get the tree with the bulb so that we could plant it in the yard after the holidays. When we did this we got a large galvanized tub to house the bulb of the tree. Depending on the bulb size and shape, it is not always easy to get the tree positioned just right. You can stabilize the tree in the center of the tub using rocks or bricks. Keep the bulb watered as often as necessary to moisten the roots but be sure to not make it soggy. It is also important to NOT apply any nutrients or fertilizer to the bulb while you have it in the house. This may initiate growth, which you do not want to occur in the dormant tree. However, once the tree is planted outside, you can use evergreen green fertilizer spikes to ensure that your holiday tree has the nutrients it need for many more Christmases to come!
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Look out for the Lady Beetles!
When I got home the other day, my front porch was overrun with ladybugs (multi-colored Asian lady beetles). I went to my mother’s house to pick up my children and her house was overrun with the pesky little beetles as well. I wondered what caused such a sudden outburst of ladybugs and my mom said that it was because the farmers in the area were cutting soybeans. When I asked her why that had anything to do with the beetles, she wasn’t sure of the answer. She just heard that when farmers cut soybeans, it disturbs the ladybugs. However, it did seem weird to me that there was a huge correlation that the farmers in the area were cutting soybeans and suddenly there are tons of ladybugs.
I decided to do some brief research and ask a few different people and I found out that ladybugs control the aphids on soybeans. Now it all made sense! When the farmers cut the soybeans it obviously disturbs the ladybugs and that is why they are all over my front porch.
The ladybug in not a native to North America and was originally brought over from Australia to control aphids on orange trees and other crops. The ladybug has no natural predator in the United States and that is why there are so many of them. They also have some sort of mechanism in their bodies that keep them from freezing. I was told that if you put a ladybug in water completely submerged, froze it, and then let it de-thaw naturally, the little beetle would de thaw and crawl away. I may have to try this.
For more information on the Multi-colored Asian Lady Beetles, click here.
I decided to do some brief research and ask a few different people and I found out that ladybugs control the aphids on soybeans. Now it all made sense! When the farmers cut the soybeans it obviously disturbs the ladybugs and that is why they are all over my front porch.
The ladybug in not a native to North America and was originally brought over from Australia to control aphids on orange trees and other crops. The ladybug has no natural predator in the United States and that is why there are so many of them. They also have some sort of mechanism in their bodies that keep them from freezing. I was told that if you put a ladybug in water completely submerged, froze it, and then let it de-thaw naturally, the little beetle would de thaw and crawl away. I may have to try this.
For more information on the Multi-colored Asian Lady Beetles, click here.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Autumn and Wild Birds
Now is the time to get your yard and yourself ready for the wild birds this winter.
Cleaning. First, clean out your nesting boxes and put a little grass or nesting material such as nesting hair in it for the birds to cuddle up in. Then check yourfeeders and bird baths. Make sure they are clean and ready to be used for another season. If you had a garden or flower beds this summer, here is a cheap way to feed some birds. Just leave the plants in your garden and beds until spring, the wild birds will enjoy feeding on the left over vegetables and seed heads.
Start offering feed to the birds now. They will be scouting out places where food will be available when the cold weather hits. If you’re not offering water and seed now you may not see any wild birds this winter. Birds will scout this fall and remember the places that had seed and water available and return to those places when their natural food supply is scarce. If you wait until winter to supply seed and water the birds may not realize your yard has anything to offer. When the cold weather hits the birds will tend to stay in the areas where they know that food is available.
Don’t forget the water. It can be hard for birds to find fresh unfrozen water, so also provide water near your feeders. You may need a heated bird bath if you live in an area when the temperature is often below freezing. Make sure to keep your water clean.
Start feeding now so you can enjoy the birds all winter long.
Cleaning. First, clean out your nesting boxes and put a little grass or nesting material such as nesting hair in it for the birds to cuddle up in. Then check yourfeeders and bird baths. Make sure they are clean and ready to be used for another season. If you had a garden or flower beds this summer, here is a cheap way to feed some birds. Just leave the plants in your garden and beds until spring, the wild birds will enjoy feeding on the left over vegetables and seed heads.
Start offering feed to the birds now. They will be scouting out places where food will be available when the cold weather hits. If you’re not offering water and seed now you may not see any wild birds this winter. Birds will scout this fall and remember the places that had seed and water available and return to those places when their natural food supply is scarce. If you wait until winter to supply seed and water the birds may not realize your yard has anything to offer. When the cold weather hits the birds will tend to stay in the areas where they know that food is available.
Don’t forget the water. It can be hard for birds to find fresh unfrozen water, so also provide water near your feeders. You may need a heated bird bath if you live in an area when the temperature is often below freezing. Make sure to keep your water clean.
Start feeding now so you can enjoy the birds all winter long.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Watering Tips for your Garden & Flowers
With summer coming for most of us, watering may be a chore we think we need to do more often. Although this may seem logical, we should actually water less frequently (weekly), but water deeply. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root development and can be wasteful, whereas weekly deeper watering encourages deep root growth for stronger and healthier plants.
It’s best to water your plants/garden early in the morning before it gets hot out. This will help prepare plants for the heat of the day. If you can’t water in the morning, choose the late afternoon or early evening, just make sure your plant leaves will have time to dry before nightfall. Moist leaves can cause fungal diseases. Therefore if you can water your plants without getting the leaves wet, late evening waterings are fine. Soaker hoses can help avoid moist leaves and also allow for deep, gentle watering. Since soaker hoses water slowly make sure you leave them on long enough; dig a small hole to see how deep the water has gone, if it’s not at least 6” run your hose a little longer.
Sprinklers can be a good watering source, but be aware that a lot of water is lost through evaporation and that your sprinkler will need to be moved frequently since they do not water evenly. Make sure you have a long enough garden hose to reach all the areas of your yard, garden and/or flower beds.
Watering cans and water wands can easily provide water to specific areas and plants. With a gentle rain like output potted plants, flowers are gardens can each individually be watered to their specific needs. These methods can also be held close to the ground to avoid getting the leaves wet.
Finally, if you don’t have the time to go out and water your plants you can get a timer for your sprinkler or soaker hose. These can be simple; water every day at the specific time you select, or they can be high tech and test the moisture to decide whether to water or not.
There are many watering methods to choose from, find the one that is best for you and your plants.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Weed Control for Your Gardens & Landscape
There are few things more satisfying than watching your carefully planted seeds germinate into colorful flowers or tasty vegetables. Unfortunately, germinating right next to your seedlings are the dreaded weeds. Taking over your garden and turning your winter garden dreams into summer weed-pulling nightmares.
There are basically three ways of controlling weeds; weed mats, organic controls or pre and post emergent herbicides.
Weed mats or weed barriers are easy to install and last for years. Simply prepare the ground for planting, unroll the fabric, cut out x’s as needed for new plants and cover with 2-3” of mulch. They are designed to let water and nutrients through to the roots but stop weeds from establishing. Weed mats are an excellent way to control unwanted growth in permanent landscape areas or under walkways and decks.
Natural and Organic controls are spray or dry spreadable products that are made of ingredients which are generally considered good for the environment and safe for use around children and pets. They still must be used as labeled to be safe and ensure proper weed control. Some of these products such as Weed Prevention Plus and Safe N Simple are weed control and fertilizer in one
Herbicides can be applied as pre-emergent’s (forming a barrier on the soil that doesn’t allow seeds to germinate) or post-emergent’s which are used to kill existing weeds. Both are very effective when used according to directions. Timing is critical when using pre-emergent herbicides once the weeds start to grow you must switch to a post-emergent. The herbicides are available in concentrates, ready-to-use and granular formations.
No matter what weed control you decide to use make sure you have a plan. If you stay ahead of the problem you can enjoy your gardens and not have to spend another summer constantly pulling weeds.
There are basically three ways of controlling weeds; weed mats, organic controls or pre and post emergent herbicides.
Weed mats or weed barriers are easy to install and last for years. Simply prepare the ground for planting, unroll the fabric, cut out x’s as needed for new plants and cover with 2-3” of mulch. They are designed to let water and nutrients through to the roots but stop weeds from establishing. Weed mats are an excellent way to control unwanted growth in permanent landscape areas or under walkways and decks.
Natural and Organic controls are spray or dry spreadable products that are made of ingredients which are generally considered good for the environment and safe for use around children and pets. They still must be used as labeled to be safe and ensure proper weed control. Some of these products such as Weed Prevention Plus and Safe N Simple are weed control and fertilizer in one
Herbicides can be applied as pre-emergent’s (forming a barrier on the soil that doesn’t allow seeds to germinate) or post-emergent’s which are used to kill existing weeds. Both are very effective when used according to directions. Timing is critical when using pre-emergent herbicides once the weeds start to grow you must switch to a post-emergent. The herbicides are available in concentrates, ready-to-use and granular formations.
No matter what weed control you decide to use make sure you have a plan. If you stay ahead of the problem you can enjoy your gardens and not have to spend another summer constantly pulling weeds.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Protecting Your Berries & Fruits
You planted your fruit trees, berry bushes and strawberries, lovingly cared for them with water and fertilizer, in some cases for several years, and pruned them just so. The time has finally come to reap the rewards. You head outside to taste the first fruits of the season but instead you find either half eaten produce or nothing at all. What do you do?
Well after you’ve finished cursing Mother Nature and yelling at the dog just because he’s there it’s time to take action.
There are several ways of combating the deer, birds, and rodents that seem to wait until just before you’re ready to pick your fruit to help themselves. We’ll stick with non-lethal ways in this article although if you’ve been in the position I described above you may have been willing to use napalm.
Netting is the most effective way to keep birds off your berry plants and cherry trees. They come in various sizes and shapes for covering large areas, trees or rows. Just place them over the area you need protected as the fruit starts to appear. They do not interfere with sunlight, water or sprays.
You can use fencing, deer fortress or an electronic deer repellent to keep deer and other animals out of the area but be sure they completely surround the plants you want to protect. Also for deer and smaller rodents such as mice, rabbits and squirrels there are various products to repel animals such as deer off, deer/rabbit repellent, defence and repels-all.
No matter what you use be sure to start early enough in the season and follow the label directions so that it’s you and not the local four legged or winged freeloaders that enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Click here to view all our pest control & repellent products.
Well after you’ve finished cursing Mother Nature and yelling at the dog just because he’s there it’s time to take action.
There are several ways of combating the deer, birds, and rodents that seem to wait until just before you’re ready to pick your fruit to help themselves. We’ll stick with non-lethal ways in this article although if you’ve been in the position I described above you may have been willing to use napalm.
Netting is the most effective way to keep birds off your berry plants and cherry trees. They come in various sizes and shapes for covering large areas, trees or rows. Just place them over the area you need protected as the fruit starts to appear. They do not interfere with sunlight, water or sprays.
You can use fencing, deer fortress or an electronic deer repellent to keep deer and other animals out of the area but be sure they completely surround the plants you want to protect. Also for deer and smaller rodents such as mice, rabbits and squirrels there are various products to repel animals such as deer off, deer/rabbit repellent, defence and repels-all.
No matter what you use be sure to start early enough in the season and follow the label directions so that it’s you and not the local four legged or winged freeloaders that enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Click here to view all our pest control & repellent products.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Family time & the Birds
Today my son and I decided we were going to make some bird feeds. So we went outside on the search for pine cones*. We found a couple, but they were a little soft, so we gathered what we could and went in to start the project. (If it wasn't raining it would have been a good idea to do this outside, my son is almost 2). I got out the peanut butter and put the seed (I'd suggest Sommer's Wild Bird Foods seed) in a bowl for him to cover the cones. Away he went, playing in the seeds and dropping quite a bit on the floor in the process. Anyways, hung them up and now we wait to see if we have any takers. We had a great time together and gave the birds a little treat in the process. Do you have a suggestion for some family time together? Let me know.
*If you can't find any pine cones, just use slices of bread. Leave them sit out for a couple hours so they get a little hard, punch a hole in them for some string, then slather on the peanut butter and sprinkle with your favorite seed.
*If you can't find any pine cones, just use slices of bread. Leave them sit out for a couple hours so they get a little hard, punch a hole in them for some string, then slather on the peanut butter and sprinkle with your favorite seed.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Bringing Birds to Your Backyard
Bringing birds to your backyard can be easy and fun. Below are 4 tips to keep in mind as you get ready for your feathered friends this spring.
1. Feed Them Well-The more diverse your food selection is the larger variety of birds you will attract to your yard. Provide plants with seeds, nectar &/or berries and dead tree limbs will attract insects for insect-eating birds. Also provide a variety of bird feeders at different heights as well as suets and other high energy foods. Keep your feeders full and clean. See our Bird Food & Feeder Preference Chart.
2. Provide Safe and Warm Shelter-Different birds prefer shelter at different heights. Provide houses as well as trees, dead and live, and shrubs. Evergreens are great for winter shelter and to hide from predators. An ideal bird habitat would have a variety of plants in size and density. This will provide the birds a choice for feeding, nesting, courting and hiding.
3. Quench Their Thirst-Birds need water whether it is fall, winter, spring or summer so provide a bird bath or fountain for them. If you have a stream running through your yard, provide logs, branches or rocks for the birds to perch on. A reliable source for bathing and drinking is what birds need.
4. Create a Place to Raise Their Young-Birds are always looking for safe places to raise their babies. You can help through nesting boxes as well as shrubs and trees. You may want to hold off trimming your shrubs until after nesting season is over, in case you have residents in your shrubs. You can also provide nesting materials such as short pieces of string and pet/human hair. Not only do these tips help out the birds, but they also provide you with the enjoyment of watching them and keeping them in your backyard all year long.
Click here to view all our wildbird products
1. Feed Them Well-The more diverse your food selection is the larger variety of birds you will attract to your yard. Provide plants with seeds, nectar &/or berries and dead tree limbs will attract insects for insect-eating birds. Also provide a variety of bird feeders at different heights as well as suets and other high energy foods. Keep your feeders full and clean. See our Bird Food & Feeder Preference Chart.
2. Provide Safe and Warm Shelter-Different birds prefer shelter at different heights. Provide houses as well as trees, dead and live, and shrubs. Evergreens are great for winter shelter and to hide from predators. An ideal bird habitat would have a variety of plants in size and density. This will provide the birds a choice for feeding, nesting, courting and hiding.
3. Quench Their Thirst-Birds need water whether it is fall, winter, spring or summer so provide a bird bath or fountain for them. If you have a stream running through your yard, provide logs, branches or rocks for the birds to perch on. A reliable source for bathing and drinking is what birds need.
4. Create a Place to Raise Their Young-Birds are always looking for safe places to raise their babies. You can help through nesting boxes as well as shrubs and trees. You may want to hold off trimming your shrubs until after nesting season is over, in case you have residents in your shrubs. You can also provide nesting materials such as short pieces of string and pet/human hair. Not only do these tips help out the birds, but they also provide you with the enjoyment of watching them and keeping them in your backyard all year long.
Click here to view all our wildbird products
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Springtime Tips for You and Your Pet
You will likely be spending more time outside with your pets on these nice warm days, but make sure your yard is safe for your pets.
Make sure your plants are not toxic to animals. Some pets will chew on plants, flowers, mulch and grass. Tulip and daffodil bulb are toxic as well as lilies, elephant ear, arrow grass, azaleas, rhododendrons, marigolds and oleander. Cocoa bean mulch smells like chocolate so dogs will sniff it out and eat it. If you have a dog, do not use this kind of mulch. Also check fertilizers, weed killer and pest control, the label should note if it is toxic to animals. After applying any of these to your yard it is recommended to keep your pet off the yard for 24 hours.
You may be eating with friends and family more too. Chocolate is not good for pets and even a little can be fatal to dogs. Keep cookies, brownies & chocolate away from them and put your Easter candy up out of their reach. Other table foods could also cause health problems, pets should stick to their own pet foods and treats.
You can call the poison control center if you think your pet has been poisoned. 1-800-222-1222 Poisonous plants to dogs. Poisonous plants to cats.
Provide toys for your pets to play with outside. Frisbees and balls will give you and your pet a little extra exercise. This will also keep them occupied and away from your flowers and garden. If you are not going to be outside with them, or they are not on a tie out, put up a fence to keep them away from the road and any pedestrians walking by.
Also with Easter around the corner pets, especially cats, tend to play with the plastic grass that is put in many Easter baskets. Keep your baskets up out of your pets reach or in a cupboard where it is out of sight. If you are hiding Easter eggs, make sure you find them all. Dogs are good at finding eggs and if found after they spoil can make your dog sick.
Before going on a walk check your leash and your pet’s collar and ID tag. Make sure they are in good condition and not too loose.
Your pet may be spending more time outside therefore making them more susceptible to fleas. Stay on top of their flea treatment schedule.
If you are going to be traveling and taking your pet with you, make sure you have the necessities needed for an easy and safe trip. Seat belt harnesses, seat covers and barriers will all be helpful on a long trip.
Have a fun and safe spring and summer with your pets!
Click here to see our cat products.
Make sure your plants are not toxic to animals. Some pets will chew on plants, flowers, mulch and grass. Tulip and daffodil bulb are toxic as well as lilies, elephant ear, arrow grass, azaleas, rhododendrons, marigolds and oleander. Cocoa bean mulch smells like chocolate so dogs will sniff it out and eat it. If you have a dog, do not use this kind of mulch. Also check fertilizers, weed killer and pest control, the label should note if it is toxic to animals. After applying any of these to your yard it is recommended to keep your pet off the yard for 24 hours.
You may be eating with friends and family more too. Chocolate is not good for pets and even a little can be fatal to dogs. Keep cookies, brownies & chocolate away from them and put your Easter candy up out of their reach. Other table foods could also cause health problems, pets should stick to their own pet foods and treats.
You can call the poison control center if you think your pet has been poisoned. 1-800-222-1222 Poisonous plants to dogs. Poisonous plants to cats.
Provide toys for your pets to play with outside. Frisbees and balls will give you and your pet a little extra exercise. This will also keep them occupied and away from your flowers and garden. If you are not going to be outside with them, or they are not on a tie out, put up a fence to keep them away from the road and any pedestrians walking by.
Also with Easter around the corner pets, especially cats, tend to play with the plastic grass that is put in many Easter baskets. Keep your baskets up out of your pets reach or in a cupboard where it is out of sight. If you are hiding Easter eggs, make sure you find them all. Dogs are good at finding eggs and if found after they spoil can make your dog sick.
Before going on a walk check your leash and your pet’s collar and ID tag. Make sure they are in good condition and not too loose.
Your pet may be spending more time outside therefore making them more susceptible to fleas. Stay on top of their flea treatment schedule.
If you are going to be traveling and taking your pet with you, make sure you have the necessities needed for an easy and safe trip. Seat belt harnesses, seat covers and barriers will all be helpful on a long trip.
Have a fun and safe spring and summer with your pets!
Click here to see our cat products.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Planting & Care for Trees, Shrubs & Roses
Plant Selection
The first step in selecting plants is to identify the area to be planted and addressing its requirements. Things that need to be considered are soil conditions, exposure to sun or shade, wind, and maintenance requirements. Be sure to select plants that are well suited to the area you are landscaping. Next, consider the plants texture, foliage color, flowers, fruit and most importantly, its mature size. A good landscape book can help with ideas and information.
Site Preparation and Planting
The heavy soil conditions in most of the country require special planning for successful plant establishment. Follow the following general planting steps:
Measure the diameter and height of the root ball. Dig the hole
1-2” shallower than the root ball and 11/2 to 2 times its diameter.
Prune Anvil Pruners the root ball after removing from container to prevent
circling or girdling roots.
Set the tree or shrub in the hole on the solid, undisturbed ground. This will prevent the plant from settling to low. Mix the backfill with an enriched garden soil. A saucer of soil should be formed to direct water to the root ball.
Water thoroughly using a liquid plant starter to settle soil and get stimulate root growth.
Mulch with 2-4” of quality bark mulch.
Remove by pruning any dead or damaged branches. Stake trees only if
necessary to prevent damage from high winds.
Watering
Plants should receive about 1” of water per week during the growing season. Remember that too much water can kill plants so do not water if plants receive 1” of rain water during the week. Water plants thoroughly the first season soaking the root ball once a week.
You can find what you need to care for your plants at www.backyardtobarnyard.com
The first step in selecting plants is to identify the area to be planted and addressing its requirements. Things that need to be considered are soil conditions, exposure to sun or shade, wind, and maintenance requirements. Be sure to select plants that are well suited to the area you are landscaping. Next, consider the plants texture, foliage color, flowers, fruit and most importantly, its mature size. A good landscape book can help with ideas and information.
Site Preparation and Planting
The heavy soil conditions in most of the country require special planning for successful plant establishment. Follow the following general planting steps:
Measure the diameter and height of the root ball. Dig the hole
1-2” shallower than the root ball and 11/2 to 2 times its diameter.
Prune Anvil Pruners the root ball after removing from container to prevent
circling or girdling roots.
Set the tree or shrub in the hole on the solid, undisturbed ground. This will prevent the plant from settling to low. Mix the backfill with an enriched garden soil. A saucer of soil should be formed to direct water to the root ball.
Water thoroughly using a liquid plant starter to settle soil and get stimulate root growth.
Mulch with 2-4” of quality bark mulch.
Remove by pruning any dead or damaged branches. Stake trees only if
necessary to prevent damage from high winds.
Watering
Plants should receive about 1” of water per week during the growing season. Remember that too much water can kill plants so do not water if plants receive 1” of rain water during the week. Water plants thoroughly the first season soaking the root ball once a week.
You can find what you need to care for your plants at www.backyardtobarnyard.com
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