Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Winter Horse Care
One thing you can do during the winter to keep your horse a little warmer is give it a little extra hay. On those bitter cold nights a little extra hay can go a long way. During digestion a horse’s body produces heat. Digesting hay produces a lot more heat than digesting grain. This is why you should never give your horse extra grain during the winter to try to keep it warm. This increase consumption of hay you would think would make your horse want to drink more. However, in the winter months a horse actually decreases water consumption. This makes it especially important that you make sure it always has access to clean, fresh water. Frozen water buckets are not pleasant to anyone but there are a couple things you could do to make it easier. Rubber buckets are a blessing in the winter since you can hit them a little harder to break the ice versus plastic buckets. If your barn is wired for electric good enough, heated water buckets are also available. These can also be dangerous if the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed. It’s also a great idea to put heat tape around exposed hydrants in your barn. They can prevent water pipes from freezing and keep your plumbing bills down!
If your horse is outside during the winter and in the snow you will want to make sure ice is not being packed and making it hard for them to walk. Horses can slip much easier if ice is packed in their hooves. Be sure to keep up on getting your horses hooves trimmed during the winter. If hooves are not maintained during the winter you risk problems in the spring and it may prolong the time you wait until you can ride again.
Every horse owner knows that horse care during the winter is a lot more difficult than in the summer months. Frozen water, frigid temperatures, high winds and snow can make it miserable but your horse’s health will be better if it has the proper care and your wallet will be bigger not paying those expensive vet bills if something bad would happen.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Oh, Christmas Tree!
One of our favorite holiday traditions is going out as a family and picking just the right Christmas tree at a local Christmas tree farm and cutting it ourselves. However, over the past few years, we have discovered some tips to help our Christmas tree last through the holiday season. One thing that really helps is to spray the tree with an anti-wilt product. This minimizes needle loss and helps the tree maintain valuable moisture that it will lose being in a climate controlled home. We also put our tree up in a cooler part of the house, in front of a window and away from heating ducts. This also helps the tree retain moisture. One year we chose to get the tree with the bulb so that we could plant it in the yard after the holidays. When we did this we got a large galvanized tub to house the bulb of the tree. Depending on the bulb size and shape, it is not always easy to get the tree positioned just right. You can stabilize the tree in the center of the tub using rocks or bricks. Keep the bulb watered as often as necessary to moisten the roots but be sure to not make it soggy. It is also important to NOT apply any nutrients or fertilizer to the bulb while you have it in the house. This may initiate growth, which you do not want to occur in the dormant tree. However, once the tree is planted outside, you can use evergreen green fertilizer spikes to ensure that your holiday tree has the nutrients it need for many more Christmases to come!
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Look out for the Lady Beetles!
I decided to do some brief research and ask a few different people and I found out that ladybugs control the aphids on soybeans. Now it all made sense! When the farmers cut the soybeans it obviously disturbs the ladybugs and that is why they are all over my front porch.
The ladybug in not a native to North America and was originally brought over from Australia to control aphids on orange trees and other crops. The ladybug has no natural predator in the United States and that is why there are so many of them. They also have some sort of mechanism in their bodies that keep them from freezing. I was told that if you put a ladybug in water completely submerged, froze it, and then let it de-thaw naturally, the little beetle would de thaw and crawl away. I may have to try this.
For more information on the Multi-colored Asian Lady Beetles, click here.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Autumn and Wild Birds
Cleaning. First, clean out your nesting boxes and put a little grass or nesting material such as nesting hair in it for the birds to cuddle up in. Then check yourfeeders and bird baths. Make sure they are clean and ready to be used for another season. If you had a garden or flower beds this summer, here is a cheap way to feed some birds. Just leave the plants in your garden and beds until spring, the wild birds will enjoy feeding on the left over vegetables and seed heads.
Start offering feed to the birds now. They will be scouting out places where food will be available when the cold weather hits. If you’re not offering water and seed now you may not see any wild birds this winter. Birds will scout this fall and remember the places that had seed and water available and return to those places when their natural food supply is scarce. If you wait until winter to supply seed and water the birds may not realize your yard has anything to offer. When the cold weather hits the birds will tend to stay in the areas where they know that food is available.
Don’t forget the water. It can be hard for birds to find fresh unfrozen water, so also provide water near your feeders. You may need a heated bird bath if you live in an area when the temperature is often below freezing. Make sure to keep your water clean.
Start feeding now so you can enjoy the birds all winter long.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Watering Tips for your Garden & Flowers
With summer coming for most of us, watering may be a chore we think we need to do more often. Although this may seem logical, we should actually water less frequently (weekly), but water deeply. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root development and can be wasteful, whereas weekly deeper watering encourages deep root growth for stronger and healthier plants.
It’s best to water your plants/garden early in the morning before it gets hot out. This will help prepare plants for the heat of the day. If you can’t water in the morning, choose the late afternoon or early evening, just make sure your plant leaves will have time to dry before nightfall. Moist leaves can cause fungal diseases. Therefore if you can water your plants without getting the leaves wet, late evening waterings are fine. Soaker hoses can help avoid moist leaves and also allow for deep, gentle watering. Since soaker hoses water slowly make sure you leave them on long enough; dig a small hole to see how deep the water has gone, if it’s not at least 6” run your hose a little longer.
Sprinklers can be a good watering source, but be aware that a lot of water is lost through evaporation and that your sprinkler will need to be moved frequently since they do not water evenly. Make sure you have a long enough garden hose to reach all the areas of your yard, garden and/or flower beds.
Watering cans and water wands can easily provide water to specific areas and plants. With a gentle rain like output potted plants, flowers are gardens can each individually be watered to their specific needs. These methods can also be held close to the ground to avoid getting the leaves wet.
Finally, if you don’t have the time to go out and water your plants you can get a timer for your sprinkler or soaker hose. These can be simple; water every day at the specific time you select, or they can be high tech and test the moisture to decide whether to water or not.
There are many watering methods to choose from, find the one that is best for you and your plants.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Weed Control for Your Gardens & Landscape
There are basically three ways of controlling weeds; weed mats, organic controls or pre and post emergent herbicides.
Weed mats or weed barriers are easy to install and last for years. Simply prepare the ground for planting, unroll the fabric, cut out x’s as needed for new plants and cover with 2-3” of mulch. They are designed to let water and nutrients through to the roots but stop weeds from establishing. Weed mats are an excellent way to control unwanted growth in permanent landscape areas or under walkways and decks.
Natural and Organic controls are spray or dry spreadable products that are made of ingredients which are generally considered good for the environment and safe for use around children and pets. They still must be used as labeled to be safe and ensure proper weed control. Some of these products such as Weed Prevention Plus and Safe N Simple are weed control and fertilizer in one
Herbicides can be applied as pre-emergent’s (forming a barrier on the soil that doesn’t allow seeds to germinate) or post-emergent’s which are used to kill existing weeds. Both are very effective when used according to directions. Timing is critical when using pre-emergent herbicides once the weeds start to grow you must switch to a post-emergent. The herbicides are available in concentrates, ready-to-use and granular formations.
No matter what weed control you decide to use make sure you have a plan. If you stay ahead of the problem you can enjoy your gardens and not have to spend another summer constantly pulling weeds.